Page Three
11. Pull the clutch hub and plates from the centre shaft. I would try and keep all of the plates together at this point. Stacking plates is not in this discussion. My final plate stack used all included plates + spacers and works great. I tried adjusting for different slipping and grabbing tolerances only to be pissed off, use breaker bar and more blue locktite.
12. When the hub and plates are out you arrive at the groovy basket that saves you three pounds and makes throttle twist a grin. Notice the inner sleeve that rests on the driven gear. This spacer from the basket works perfectly with this clutch. When you remove or tighten these nuts do so in a criss cross pattern. Torque setting to tighten are at 32nm and once again I used blue, but red locktight is listed in the book.
13. God knows where it's been but my finger is pointing at the inner sleeve. You should not have to remove this item to add your Surflex clutch or change plates later. I did of course and it has a washer and is a pain in the arse.
14. Below is the clutch hub removed and inverted. The part my finger is resting on would go first onto the driven shaft. Note the grooves to fit the driven gear rod and cut out to fit the inner sleeve spacer. A very close inspection will also reveal ramping on the piece my finger touches (the drive hub) going into the clutch hub. this is where your slip comes from. the clutch hub has ramps also to match the drive hub. When the back wheel gets excessive engine braking the clutch hub will ride into these ramps and allow the clutch to slip. The nice thing about this feature is you still have engine breaking on the street. Beware however that a slipper clutch does not stop stupidity. Downshifitng must be smooth to work, otherwise you will just lock the rear wheel and accomplish little until traction allows the clutch to get power to separate..
14. Drive hub and octopus thingy being removed.
15. Drive hub being removed from octopus piece. Notice ramps on hub, these ramps will match the octopus.
